(The recently opened Ceremony in Norfolk’s Ghent neighborhood presents gourmet vegan and vegetarian dishes. Photo courtesy of Ceremony.)
By Marisa Marsey
Like a beach’s shifting sands, Coastal Virginia’s restaurant landscape is constantly in flux. Here’s a sampling of new-kids-on-the-block, rapidly becoming beloved, and established favorites continuing to grow and evolve…
Chic’s Laundry
Once upon a time, Napa Valley’s famed French Laundry was a laundry; so, too, this snug spot a seagull’s laugh from the Chesapeake Bay (more recently home to Zia Marie, relocated to Shore Drive). In just four months, CL, an upmarket restaurant that holds the starch (read: no white tablecloths) has amassed fans clamoring for relaxed contemporary coastal comfort cuisine. Go for local oysters on the half shell, brick oven pizzas and burgers or kombu-cured salmon, bacon wrapped filet, even caviar service. Wash it all down with crafty cocktails like the cheekily named “Dirty Laundry” (a dirty martini spin with squid ink for brine) and wines from a tidy list, curated by Todd Jurich (a principal here), neatly folded into helpful headings like “light style aromatic reds” and “powerhouses.” The Laundry Cart, its mobile unit, rolls out on-premises breakfast (with adult beverages!) on weekends. 4497 Lookout Road, Virginia Beach. 757-306-4683. chicslaundry.com
The Hampton Social
If you’ve ever dreamt of summering in the Hamptons, hobnobbing at a Martha “Stewarted” soiree, head to this beautiful, sun-kissed scion of Chicago-based Parker Hospitality. Opened last month on Atlantic Park Surf’s turf, it self-identifies as “rosé-forward” and its pink wines, breezy cocktails and zero-proofs pair refreshingly well with seafood rolls (lobster, crab or shrimp), pickle-brined golden chicken, blackened sea bass and crispy coconut tofu amidst a bright, whitewashed décor of oars, ropey nautical fixtures and yachta, yachta, yachta. 365 18th Street, Virginia Beach. 757-702-3311. thehamptonsocial.com.
Junes Daytime
He-man portions belie the refined delicateness in each dish at this stylish new (opened, yes, in June) Great Neck breakfast-lunchery-bakery that sounds like it’s presided over by a 1950s housewife in pearls and high heels. In actuality, it’s owned by Clint Compton (Hearth) and Lily Clayman (COOP Food Truck), two Culinary Institute of America alums who believe in using topdrawer ingredients and sophisticated techniques to create seemingly simple fare like sausage biscuits, burritos, tuna melts and meatloaf sandwiches. There’s a lot of local here, from the baked goods (sandwich breads, cookies, muffins, crullers) made in-house early each morning to the walnut woodwork by Phillip Goold of Goold Furniture & Design to the artwork (some for sale). Seating is limited, so ordering ahead and take out are almost as popular as the irresistible cinnamon buns. 1328 N. Great Neck Road, Virginia Beach. 757-412-1122. junesdaytime.com
Vang’s Sushi Shack
The second of Noel Vang’s skateboard-themed, new wave sushi spots rolled out on Shore Drive this summer, fast on the heels of his first (truly a walk-up shack in Haygood Shopping Center’s parking lot). Like his two-year old Sushi Vice at the Oceanfront, they veer off-road (Nobu they’re not) with freewheeling rolls (some feature Cheetos). Most rad are the big-city, viral sushi push-up pops. Totally tubular, they come with an attached soy sauce cylinder (condiment and push-up stick in one!). Handy for eating-on-the-go, but Shack #2, seating 30, is so sleek, you might want to stay…and play (there are skateboard video games and a Pac-Man arcade machine). Like his brother Evan of Vang Go Bistro in Ghent, Noel makes food fun. 1089 Independence Boulevard (757-981-7511) and 3037 Shore Drive (757-989-7113). Both in Virginia Beach.
Blanca Food + Wine
Despite improbable seating – a kitchen-bar, tented dining room and patio – Blanca has thrived in Riverview over the last eight years; Courtney White’s Euro-centric fare so captivates, you wouldn’t mind consuming it in a cave. But it’s finally getting the setting it deserves, with an actual dining room where the all-seasons awning once stood. “It will have the same footprint, but be much more equipped to weather the elements,” shared the exuberant chef-owner. “Real floors, real light fixtures will make the dining experience more comfortable for everyone.” There’s more storage for her ever-swelling wine list, too. (White is further expanding her business with the opening this fall of Bambino, a traditional Italian trattoria at the Virginia Beach Oceanfront.) 4117 Granby Street, Norfolk. 757-390-2405. blancava.com
Fellini’s
“A place you can come when you don’t want to go out to eat.” That’s how the late founder Mike Cavish described Fellini’s. Over three decades later, the NoCo restaurant that people adore for gourmet pizzas, pasta and fulsome salads is still in his family, though the team of Karl Dornemann, Eric Stevens and Mike Farrell recently took over its day-to-day operations (in some combination, they’ve been behind many of Hampton Roads’ coolest restaurants including Crackers, Empire, Bardo, Still, The Public House). “We’re keeping it true to what Fellini’s always has been,” said Farrell, chef and GM, “But bringing in renewed love and energy.” He grew up nearby on Delaware Avenue so it’s a homecoming of sorts. Which kinda tracks with what Cavish had in mind. 3910 Colley Avenue, Norfolk. 757-625-3000. fellinisva.com
Frank and Patty’s
Smashburger patties typically come in twos, so it synchs that soon there will be two Frank & Patty’s, a full-service, done-right hot dog and hamburger hotspot begun as a pop-up before brick-and-mortaring it in the ViBe Creative District two years ago. Despite nearly doubling in size last year, lines still form, so a second location in East Ocean View is welcome news. In case you’re wondering who Frank and Patty are, Frank stands for the snappy dogs and Patty the smashburgers. Each come in a few varieties, but that’s about it besides crackerjack staff in both front- and back-of-house plus beer and cocktails. Quite chill. 510 17-1/2 Street, Virginia Beach. 757-904-5045. frankandpattysva.com
Ceremony
Located beneath Fairgrounds Coffee in Ghent, Ceremony has transformed its nonalcoholic bottle shop into an inviting bar and kitchen. “All of our dishes are veggie forward and presented in a small plate format,” said chef-owner Chris Simmonds. The summer menu includes items such as pickled beet & stone fruit, roasted aubergine (eggplant) and ricotta agnolotti. Check out the variety of non-alcoholic wines and craft cocktails as well as an emerging pastry program. Dinner is served Thursday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. 806 Baldwin Ave., Norfolk. 757-402-3909. enjoyceremony.com
The Green Onion
Finally, Happy 20th Anniversary to The Green Onion, Ghent’s quintessential French-leaning American café. After all these years, can you still call it “green?” The 20th anniversary party is July 31. 1603 Colley Avenue, Norfolk. 757-963-1200. thegreenonionnorfolk.com