(Chef Zack Close adds pepper sauce over the Hanger Steak)
By Jeff Maisey
The “food is phenomenal.”
That was a common comment quickly spreading on Instagram following the friends-and-family soft opening of ilo, a neighborhood bistro located in the Historic Freemason District.
The highly anticipated restaurant is owned and operated by Chef Zack Close.
Close, who spent a decade in New York City and worked with Daniel Boulud at his Michelin- starred restaurant, Café Boulud, before returning to his hometown of Norfolk to become the Executive Chef at the Glass Light Hotel Restaurant in 2023, was eager to share his culinary vision with his homeport foodies.
The neighborhood bistro’s cuisine showcases modern French and Mediterranean influences (a mix between Close’s mostly French training and Greek heritage).
“A changing seasonal menu with focus on local products as much as possible,” shared Zach regarding his menu concept. “A few snack type bites, small shareable plates, pastas and then entrees. Overall, on the more casual/approachable side of things but still offering quality ingredients prepared with creativity and skill.”
On the general public opening night, I was joined by my significant other, Lynn, and frequent dining friends Brian and Ashley Strattner. We were instantly smitten with how Zach and his wife, Emma, transformed the former Voila restaurant space.
ilo, spelled with a lower case “i” and pronounced “eye-low,” has 11 attractive oak-top dining tables that can accommodate about 30 people. Eight high-stools provide additional seating at the attractive bar.
The walnut back bar with white marble top was designed by his mother, Irene, who, with her husband Jim Close, have owned Monticello Antique Shop in the same neighborhood since the 1980s. The shop’s longtime cabinetmaker, David Colonna, built the bar. Behind the bar is an accent wall with a warm silvery, gray color scheme with what appears to be a detailed sunflower garden print.
The ceiling and other wall spaces are white. Framed prints titled “Figs” and “Folk Flowers” are black ink on white paper and adorn the non-window corner wall. The prints are by artist Anne-Louise Ewen, a favorite of Emma’s, based in Joshua Tree, California.
“With this collection of sketches, I hope to offer you a refuge of warm, elegant simplicity,” the artist wrote on her website.
Ewen’s description of this series of artwork is really a perfect match for the bistro — a warm, elegant simplicity.
Having digested the ambience, including the ideal soft white overhead lighting and large sidewalk-view windows, the four of us were ready to order drinks. ilo’s speciality is making flavorful craft cocktails as well as focusing on, what Zack says, are “smaller wine producers who practice more biodynamic/organic growing and production.”
Brian and I are discerning red wine consumers and were intrigued by the bistro’s reasonably priced selection. We were very impressed with the smooth tasting bottle of Nic Tartagila Montepulciano from Italy ($12/glass, $45/bottle) and the Kamkouti Vineyards’ Velventos Tspoumakos ($11/$42). It’s hard to find a really nice bottle of Greek wine in our region for some reason, but the Kamkouti was robust, minerally, and most pleasing.
(Artfully served and delicious Tuna Crudo)
For our first taste, we ordered house-made warm, tender sourdough bread with butter ($6) and an artistically presented plate of Tuna Crudo ($14) to share. Although the Strattners aren’t big on sushi, they were willing give the tuna a try. The thinly sliced tuna was enhanced in a sauce of olive oil and red verjus (a tart juice extracted from unripe red wine grapes) with ultra thinly sliced grapes and bits of Sicilian pistachios. Four thumbs up!
“Oh, my god, this is so good,” I recall Lynn saying.
Other snacks and small plates we hope to try on a second visit with friends: Savory Loukomades (with shaved Surryano ham, honey and sesame, $12), Grilled Stuffed Calamari (Bomba rice, chorizo, romesco sauce, crispy tentacle and basil, $18), and Crispy Duck Rillette ($12). Also inviting are a daily oyster selection at market price, charred broccolini ($14), and chilled shrimp (with avocado, grapefruit, heart of palm, crispy shallot, and mint, $16).
For our main course, Lynn and Ashley each ordered pasta — the Gnocchi with small cubes of butternut squash with brown butter and sage ($24). The ladies allowed two extra forks to have a taste and we all enjoy the savory dish.
The other pasta item on the menu was Pappardelle (braised lamb ragu, Castelveltrano olive, ricotta, and mint, $26). Add to the to-do list.
Though I was mightily tempted by the Puppy Drum (with braised kale, cannelli beans and cippolini onion, $30), I relented as our second bottle of wine arrived — and ordered the Hanger Steak as did Bryan.
The steak was perfectly cooked to our medium liking and served with a delightful creamy spinach, crispy chunks of potatoes, and a light covering of sauce au poivre (pepper) for $38. The portion was generous, the meat tender and flavorful.
Next time, I’ll reconsider the Puppy Drum, Flounder (with piperade, fennel, basil, and crispy chickpea, $30) and Grilled Half Chicken (enhanced with cous cous, harissa, Greek yogurt, and a Hern salad, $28) and main course items.
(Gnocchi with butternut squash)
What’s refreshing about ilo is that it’s rooted in family, friends, and an appreciation of sharing and enjoying a brilliantly cooked and presented meal. Contemporary dining, yet not at all pretentious.
The name “ilo” comes from “a nickname that some of my parents’ friends have for my mom,” shared Zack.
He and Emma, who earned her masters degree in hospitality and works full time in sales at The Main, have a one-year-old child at home as they juggle the front and back of the bistro.
“We did this as a labor of love between the two of us,” Emma said, taking a 30-second break on this busy night. “It’s something we’ve always talked about.”
And, yes, the food really is phenomenal.
ilo Bistro, 509 Botetourt St, Norfolk. Reservations at 757-937-0984, resy.com, Tuesday through Saturday. In December, they’ll open on Mondays as well. Hours are 5-9 PM weeknights, 5-10 PM on Friday and Saturday.
