By Betsy DiJulio
Vegan fare is perhaps not what one would go searching for in a Baja surfer bar in Ghent, but if that surf-hut-meets-urban-storefront happened to be Colley Cantina, that’s exactly what you should seek out. In fact, their website lists “Baja Cuisine and Vegan” as their specialties and I would concur.
Shaping local dining culture since 1991, though changing hands a few times until it landed in the practiced palms of Bridget Varney, this beloved neighborhood dive bar, complete with TV screens, worn-in comfort, and no attempt to conceal the wall unit, garbage bin, or fire extinguisher, is also a mecca for plant-based Cali-inspired Fresh Mex. But, based on drink specials and “rotating drafts” colorfully inscribed on big chalkboards—along with the 21-tap surfboard behind the bard—I’m guessing the bar business bustles.
On the Wednesday night I visited recently with a Norfolk pal—which happened to be “Ladies Night” complete with $5 drink specials—what looked to be regulars hung out near the entrance, lined the seats at the bar, and dotted the adjacent dining area, where we were seated, and the all-weather patio. The latter is said to be the best people-watching perch on Colley and they have the awards to prove it. Each space offers its own nuances, but the ultra-relaxed vibe and warm and efficient service flow throughout.
Brightly painted walls, non-descript neutral tile floors, and well-loved wooden tables and chairs set the stage for omni fare: snacks, hot dogs, tacos, quesadillas, burritos, sammies, smashburgers, and sweets. But I went straight for the vegan options of which there are plenty. Essentially plant-based people can enjoy most of what their meat-and-fish-eating counterparts order without having to ask for anything—like cheese or the fantasy-worthy Baja Sauce—to be omitted. And it is all fresh and made from scratch daily.
Widely available in grocery stores and tasty from my perspective, Beyond Beef is listed as the Cantina’s “red meat” of choice, so I kept scanning the menu for a rarer treat. My eyes lighted on the vegan fried tofu “fish” aka “tofish.” It comes as a sandwich or a taco in two different styles. I opted for the Baha style taco, as I wanted less bread and more filling. Speaking of filling: one was plenty. I also ordered a side of their shredded vegan “cheddar” because I was curious. There is plenty of room for improvement in the world of plant-based cheeses, but this was a serviceable and perfectly acceptable version.
My ample “fillet” was beautifully coated, fried to golden brown perfection, and cradled in a flour tortilla—corn is also available—topped with crunchy cabbage, juicy and lively pico, and that Baja sauce of the devil. Creamy, tangy, and pleasantly warm in spice and color, I could drink it. Well, maybe not, as it is rich and, presumably, mayo based. But I would certainly buy it if they bottled and sold it.
The most you can spend on any dish at the Cantina is $16 and many, if not most, range from $4-$9. My taco was only $7 and worth every penny. On Wednesday nights, the Cantina offers $3 off quesadillas plus that special cocktail menu with other specials for every night of the week. My companion ordered a gloriously colored and delightfully sweet-and-sour lemon drop-like martini from the rainbow of options. I chose a nice, crisp Sauvignon Blanc because I am not a beer drinker, though that would have been more in keeping with the theme.
But the Cantina seems the least likely establishment to judge my beverage pairing or, for that matter, anything else.
Colley Cantina, 1316 Colley Ave, Norfolk | 757-622-0033, www.colleycantina.com
