(A healthy lunch: Poached Pear Pecan Salad with grilled chicken added.)
By Jeff Maisey
The Green Onion is back and better than ever.
Like many independent, locally-owned restaurants, The Green Onion was challenged in a variety of ways during COVID and in the aftermath of the pandemic.
Now, with a refreshed menu and reimagined interior design, the longtime Ghent neighborhood establishment is again a must-dine, favorite hotspot for lunch, weekend brunch, and nightly dinner.
The first thing I noticed was the retro, mid-century modern-esque brownish orange chairs positioned at each matching wood-grained table. The tabletops are adorn with a small tin garden pale with artificial green onion leaves as a centerpiece — a nice touch.
The walls are solid, varying shades of green; the overhead light fixtures resemble onion domes, and the floors have been redone to aesthetically warm-up the dining room experience.
A pair of facing, complimentary sofas maintain a lounge space for cocktail and wine sipping conversationalists. The refurbished bar is made more attractive and inviting with its rich brown wooden top and underneath lighting illuminating the green painted bamboo-like mural wall.
If you like a good happy hour, The Green Onion maintains a great deal 11 AM to 7 PM daily featuring $5 glasses of red, white and rose wines as well as $3 house spirits. Basic domestic bottles of beer are $3.50 or less.
Wine by the bottle is a health mix of international and California in choice with most price in the $30-$40 range. Among the featured cocktails are the French Martini, Le Forum, and Boulevardier.
If the cocktails sound French that’s by design.
“We are French-forward,” said general manager Jonathan Rawson, commenting on the overall contemporary vibe, menu, and wine selection.
Chefs Brittni Weger and Spenser Glover pride themselves on sourcing locally harvested ingredients with seasonal produce, sustainable seafood and quality meats.
I’ve made several visits in the June to dine with friends and family, and each occasion the service was attentive, friendly, and engaging.
On a Wednesday, I had the refreshing Poached Pear Pecan salad and added grilled chicken as a protein at the suggestion of our waitress. It was the perfect choice on what was a 90-degree day. My companion, also wanting to eat light, was thrilled with her Grilled Shrimp hors d’oeuvre menu choice, with was served with a delicious peach whiskey barbecue sauce.
The overall menu is vast with one inviting choice after another.
Other lunch highlights include New England Lobster Rolls, Oyster Mushroom Po Boy, French Grilled Cheese sandwich using artisan fromages melted on a buttered baguette and served with a hearty tomato bisque, traditional French Dip, and the Salmon BLT.
Appetizing appetizers include Coquilles St. Jacques (local wild-caught scallops and an oyster mushroom cream sauce), Baked Brie, Mussels, and Fried Green Tomatoes.
For Saturday and Sunday Brunch, several Eggs Benedict options await. I had The Ghent (with shrimp and crab), but the Florentine (creamy garlic spinach and tomato), Royal (smoked salmon), and the Classic (applewood ham) were equally under consideration.
Other brunch items include Seasonal Quiche, Creme Brulee French Toast, and a proper English Breakfast. If you’re really hungry order the Steak & Eggs (ribeye steak, a trio of sunny-side-up eggs and home fries.
I had a Thursday evening dinner and enjoyed the Poached Grouper Au Vin Blanc. For summertime, this was ideal and full of flavor. I loved idea of the Champagne broth the fish was simmered in so much that I order a bottle of Laurent Perrier Champagne to toast the meal.
Another excellent dinner choice is the Chicken Paillard. I also had my eye on the Steak au Poivre and Summer Crab Cake.
Until next time…can’t wait.
