web Food Joe

Words & Photos by Joe Lowrey

 

I’m guessing everyone reading this has their own idea about what makes barbeque special. I’m also thinking it is a pretty safe bet that most of you have never experienced the magnificent meats served up by the two joints I’m telling you about today.  Both are off the beaten culinary paths in North Norfolk, aka NoNo.  Steel Pier Café and Catering is between a laundromat and a check cashing joint at 4214 East Little Creek Road near Shore Drive. Megallon’s Gourmet Barbeque is near Azalea Gardens Road at 2424 East Little Creek Road across the street from a bowling alley next door to a used car lot.

Owner Kent Hudgins’s childhood memories of fishing trips to the old Steel Pier in Virginia Beach inspired him to open his place in November 2011.  He and his Dad enjoyed the simple food and personal service at the Pier’s snack bar. His Grandfather Hutch smoked a mean beef brisket and that chunk of meat lives on at Steel Pier Café today.

The beef brisket is slow smoked in the on premises smoke house.  Kent serves it sliced thin and the smooth smoky flavor seeps from each juicy mouthful. Chew it slow, savor it. Chicken and pork also spend time in the smokehouse. The pork is pulled, not sliced or chopped. The pork ribs are carefully selected and served moist and tender. The chicken falls off the bone willingly and the wings are truly original.

All meats are available on platters, sandwiches and wraps and in original creations like the Red Neck Philly, a must try with your choice of chicken, beef or pork.  I sampled one with beef and will return soon for the other options.  Andy’s Quesadilla came to life after suggestions from a regular customer and can be had with your choice of BBQ or a honey jalapeno sauce. Don’t leave without sampling the Pork Puppies. Bite into the gently fried homemade batter and you’ll find morsels of that sweet, juicy pork.

Sheila Phillips runs the front of the house at this cozy, bright little spot. The restaurant seats 15. The sauces are family secrets and sold by the pint. Beef, chicken and pork are ready for takeout by the pound.  Kent caters and beamed with pride while telling me about some of his satisfied catering clients, including one group of 600!  Steel Pier Café is open 11-6, Monday-Friday, 11-4 Saturday, closed on Sunday. 757-321-1363.

Don Agee’s running buddies nicknamed him for the creature that battled Godzilla in the classic monster movie.  He painted a building’s bricks piggy pink and hung the Megallons Gourmet Barbeque sign in April 1998.  Don spent some of his youth as a short order cook at Florence’s Pharmacy near the storied old Harrison’s Fishing Pier in Ocean View. Prior to that he learned a trick or two at his Mom’s restaurant in Kentucky.

One of his secrets is slow smoking his meats in persimmon wood sourced from Moyock, N.C. Some folks prefer hickory, others favor mesquite or Applewood but the softer, sweeter smoke of the persimmon lends something unique to the pork and chicken available at Megallon’s.

I have been eating at Megallon’s for about 10 years and can’t see myself staying away. As a native of Memphis I’ve eaten my share of good barbeque and this Norfolk boy knows what he is doing. His ribs are delightful. They are cooked without sauce. This gives you the chance to savor that tender, juicy close to the bone goodness of the pork. They are cooked with a dry rub. Add your choice of his handmade Carolina or Memphis style tomato based sauce or try one of the many “store bought” preparations you’ll find on the counter or at your table.

The pork sandwiches are made to order with your choice of chopped or sliced pork. Folks, this meat literally melts in your mouth. I haven’t found pork this good anywhere outside of Memphis. Megallon carefully trims his smoked pork butts before chopping and eliminates just about every morsel of fat. The slices are paper thin.  The persimmon wood smoke caresses the meat and you are in for a true treat!  His chicken wings should be illegal and the he also offers equally delightful half and whole birds.

You’ll find table seating for 10 or so and half dozen stools at the bar. Megallon’s Gourmet Barbeque is open Monday-Saturday 10-7. 757-531-1131. 2424 East Little Creek Road.